Skip to main content
  1. Writing/

Hawai'i (Big Island) Trip

·2191 words
This blog post is part of a 📸 photography series on this website. Occasionally I take photos and aggregate them here.

This is a collection from a recent trip to Hawai’i (Big Island). Hands down, one of my favorite places in the world. The island has something for everyone - in the Fall, it’s a dryer, sunnier climate on its West coast, and a more rainy and green climate on the East coast. It’s also big enough that you have so much to explore, but it also is very much drive-able - you can see both coasts in one day. I chose this destination for the trip because it’s truly a natural marvel, and it’s also significantly less crowded with tourists than other islands (but that’s just my take). Something you really grow to appreciate if you want to have quieter hiking trails.

As a side-note, the lesson I also learned early on when visiting the islands is that you need to rent a car. Unless you are going to Honolulu, public transit will be extremely limited. And there will be plenty of places where there is no transit available at all. Aim for a 4x4 if you’re willing to go up Mauna Kea, but more on that later.

Flying out #

Wouldn’t be a trip without spending some time at the airport plane spotting.

Planes lined up on the airport tarmac.
Planes lined up on the airport tarmac.
Delta aircraft taking off.
Delta aircraft taking off.
Alaska Airlines aircraft lining up for takeoff.
Alaska Airlines aircraft lining up for takeoff.
University of Washington livery on an Alaska Airlines aircraft.
University of Washington livery on an Alaska Airlines aircraft.
Alaska Airlines aircraft lining up for take off, with another Alaska Airlines plane taking off.
Alaska Airlines aircraft lining up for take off, with another Alaska Airlines plane taking off.
Police escort on the airport tarmac.
Police escort on the airport tarmac.
Close-up of a Boeing 737-900ER loading passengers.
Close-up of a Boeing 737-900ER loading passengers.
Close-up of a Boeing 737-900ER refueling.
Close-up of a Boeing 737-900ER refueling.

Big Island #

First days #

Kamamalu street sign in Waimea.
Kamamalu street sign in Waimea.
Sign with business names in Waimea.
Sign with business names in Waimea.

The trip started with a stop at Ippy’s Hawaiian Barbecue in Waimea. Many hours on a cross-ocean flight will make you really hungry for some Hawaiian food.

Ippy's Hawaiian Babecue in Waimea.
Ippy’s Hawaiian Babecue in Waimea.

Coming back to the hotel - the view definitely reminded us that we were on Big Island.

View from the hotel.
View from the hotel.
More palms and a pond, as seen from the hotel.
More palms and a pond, as seen from the hotel.

Another place that is a must-try on Big Island is Nephi’s Smokehouse. Unmatched flavor, and portions are big.

Hawaiian barbecue.
Hawaiian barbecue.

The night sky is also something else - if just don’t see that anywhere in an urban, heavily light-polluted city. I sat on the balcony for more than an hour and just stared out.

Night sky, seen from Hawai'i.
Night sky, seen from Hawai’i.
Night sky, seen from Hawai'i.
Night sky, seen from Hawai’i.
Night sky, seen from Hawai'i.
Night sky, seen from Hawai’i.
Night sky, seen from Hawai'i.
Night sky, seen from Hawai’i.
Palm trees, with Big Island in the background.
Palm trees, with Big Island in the background.
View up North, towards Kohala.
View up North, towards Kohala.
View up North, towards Kohala.
View up North, towards Kohala.
Highway 19 seen in between the lava rock-covered landscape.
Highway 19 seen in between the lava rock-covered landscape.
View of Maui and the Northern part of Big Island from the scenic overlook near Kiholo Bay.
View of Maui and the Northern part of Big Island from the scenic overlook near Kiholo Bay.
View of Maui and the Northern part of Big Island from the scenic overlook near Kiholo Bay.
View of Maui and the Northern part of Big Island from the scenic overlook near Kiholo Bay.
View of Maui and the Northern part of Big Island from the scenic overlook near Kiholo Bay.
View of Maui and the Northern part of Big Island from the scenic overlook near Kiholo Bay.
Scenic overlook near Kiholo Bay, overlooking highway 19.
Scenic overlook near Kiholo Bay, overlooking highway 19.

Mauna Kea #

Coming to the Big Island we knew that we wanted to get to the summit of Mauna Kea. It’s a dormant volcano, sacred to native Hawaiians, with multiple observatories at the very top.

I mentioned earlier that a 4x4 vehicle (not AWD - actual 4x4) is needed to go up the mountain. That’s not just a recommendation but a requirement - you can easily get to the visitor center but if you want to go further, a ranger will check that you have proper 4x4 with 4Low, as well as that you know how to handle the transmission shifts. You will need that on the way up and on the way down, as riding the brakes is just not an option - they will overheat and give out, leading to… not a good experience at all.

We also spent about an hour acclimating at the visitor center - you will feel the altitude change. You won’t be going up unless you’ve spent the time getting ready.

Park ranger booth near the Mauna Kea visitor center.
Park ranger booth near the Mauna Kea visitor center.

When we got to the visitor center, the day was turning out to be fairly cloudy, with a higher cloud cover. There was an inkling of doubt - maybe this was not the right time to go up (you won’t see the island from above the same as you would if you’re above the clouds), but we noticed a few cars going up and down so that boosted our confidence that we should continue with our drive.

Looking up Mauna Kea from the visitor center.
Looking up Mauna Kea from the visitor center.
Looking towards Pu'u Kalepeamoa from the Mauna Kea visitor center.
Looking towards Pu’u Kalepeamoa from the Mauna Kea visitor center.

After acclimating, we embarked on our drive up - and it was oh so worth it to go through a dusty, unpaved mountain road to get there. 4Low takes you slowly up the mountain

The last part of the drive was actually paved - this was done to avoid dust interfering with the work of the telescopes at the summit, and it was much easier to get through; however, the higher we went, the more we felt the altitude change effects.

A view from the summit of Mauna Kea.
A view from the summit of Mauna Kea.
Gemini telescope, summit of Mauna Kea.
Gemini telescope, summit of Mauna Kea.
University of Hawai'i telescope, summit of Mauna Kea.
University of Hawai’i telescope, summit of Mauna Kea.
Telescopes seen through the clouds, summit of Mauna Kea.
Telescopes seen through the clouds, summit of Mauna Kea.
Telescopes seen through the clouds, summit of Mauna Kea.
Telescopes seen through the clouds, summit of Mauna Kea.

When we got to the summit, there was nobody there, other than a few maintenance workers.

Maintenance workers at the summit of Mauna Kea.
Maintenance workers at the summit of Mauna Kea.
Gemini North telescope, summit of Mauna Kea.
Gemini North telescope, summit of Mauna Kea.

We were thrilled we got the see the observatories and the volcanic backdrop, even if it was all covered in clouds. Next time we’ll try to time the cloud cover better.

When we got back to the visitor center, the ranger checked our brake temperature and we were given the green light to keep going. We stopped by the visitor center one more time. It started raining within five minutes and the road up the mountain was closed for the day. What timing.

Mole thinking.

If I've never driven a 4x4, is it OK for me to rent a proper car and go up the mountain? I'll learn as I drive.

I would definitely caution against that. The road up is not extremely dangerous, but the hairpin turns, narrow crossings, and oncoming traffic mean that you need to know what you’re doing - that is definitely not the place to learn how to handle a 4x4. In my experience, the drive down is actually slight more dangerous than up because your instinct is going to be pushing you towards hitting the brakes, but you absolutely shouldn’t. You’ll rely on the 4Low.

The island #

View towards the ocean from the North-West coast of Hawai'i.
View towards the ocean from the North-West coast of Hawai’i.
Marina, with Mauna Loa in the background.
Marina, with Mauna Loa in the background.
Palm trees and road in Kawaihae.
Palm trees and road in Kawaihae.

Trip to Pololū Valley #

Because we were mostly staying on the West coast, we wanted to see the beautiful valleys of the Kohala forest reserve as a contrast to the volcanic rock that was surrounding us. Pololū Valley was the most accessible destination without hiking far.

Road to Pololū Valley.
Road to Pololū Valley.
Palm trees near Pololū Valley.
Palm trees near Pololū Valley.
View of palm trees and cliffs, towards Pololū Beach.
View of palm trees and cliffs, towards Pololū Beach.
View of palm trees and cliffs, towards Pololū Beach.
View of palm trees and cliffs, towards Pololū Beach.
View of palm trees and cliffs, towards Pololū Beach.
View of palm trees and cliffs, towards Pololū Beach.
View of palm trees and cliffs, towards Pololū Beach.
View of palm trees and cliffs, towards Pololū Beach.
Pololū Valley.
Pololū Valley.
Cliff near Pololū Valley.
Cliff near Pololū Valley.
Cliff near Pololū Valley.
Cliff near Pololū Valley.
Cliff near Pololū Valley.
Cliff near Pololū Valley.
Pololū Valley.
Pololū Valley.
Pololū Valley close-up.
Pololū Valley close-up.
Cows eating grass at the bottom of Pololū Valley.
Cows eating grass at the bottom of Pololū Valley.
Palm tree near Pololū Valley.
Palm tree near Pololū Valley.
Coconuts growing on a palm tree, Pololū Valley.
Coconuts growing on a palm tree, Pololū Valley.
Pololū Historic Trail sign near the hiking trail to Pololū Beach.
Pololū Historic Trail sign near the hiking trail to Pololū Beach.
Lemons growing near Pololū Valley.
Lemons growing near Pololū Valley.
Palm tree with coconuts, with the ocean and Paokalani Island in the background.
Palm tree with coconuts, with the ocean and Paokalani Island in the background.
Flowers near Pololū Lookout.
Flowers near Pololū Lookout.
Flowers near Pololū Lookout.
Flowers near Pololū Lookout.
Flowers near Pololū Lookout.
Flowers near Pololū Lookout.
Palm tree near Pololū Valley.
Palm tree near Pololū Valley.
Pololū Valley Lookout sign.
Pololū Valley Lookout sign.
Coconuts near Pololū Valley Lookout.
Coconuts near Pololū Valley Lookout.
Flowers near Pololū Valley Lookout.
Flowers near Pololū Valley Lookout.
Flowers near Pololū Valley Lookout.
Flowers near Pololū Valley Lookout.
Paokalani Island, as seen from Pololū Valley Lookout.
Paokalani Island, as seen from Pololū Valley Lookout.
Tree near Pololū Valley Lookout.
Tree near Pololū Valley Lookout.
Highway 270, on the way back from Pololū Valley.
Highway 270, on the way back from Pololū Valley.
Highway 270, on the way back from Pololū Valley.
Highway 270, on the way back from Pololū Valley.
Highway 270, on the way back from Pololū Valley.
Highway 270, on the way back from Pololū Valley.
Highway 270, on the way back from Pololū Valley.
Highway 270, on the way back from Pololū Valley.

Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site #

On the way back from our trip North, we stopped by the Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site - a symbol Hawaiian unification and peace, established by King Kamehameha. There is a visitor center ran by the National Park Service where you can stop by and learn the history of this sacred place.

Hawaiian flag.
Hawaiian flag.
Hawaiian flag next to the United States of America flag.
Hawaiian flag next to the United States of America flag.
Looking towards Kawaihae.
Looking towards Kawaihae.
Pu'ukohola Heiau National Historic Site.
Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site.
Pu'ukohola Heiau National Historic Site.
Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Site.

Kalahuipua’a Fishponds #

That same day, we also made a stop-over at the Kalahuipua’a Fishponds to see some of the local aquatic wildlife, along with the beach at sunset.

Looking North towards the Kohala forest reserve.
Looking North towards the Kohala forest reserve.
Looking towards Mauna Loa.
Looking towards Mauna Loa.
Lava tube on the way to the Kalahuipua'a Fishponds.
Lava tube on the way to the Kalahuipua’a Fishponds.
Cooled down lava on the way to Kalahuipua'a Fishponds.
Cooled down lava on the way to Kalahuipua’a Fishponds.
The path to Kalahuipua'a Fishponds.
The path to Kalahuipua’a Fishponds.
The path to Kalahuipua'a Fishponds.
The path to Kalahuipua’a Fishponds.
View from the path to Kalahuipua'a Fishponds.
View from the path to Kalahuipua’a Fishponds.
Birds on the path to Kalahuipua'a Fishponds.
Birds on the path to Kalahuipua’a Fishponds.
Palm tree growing near Kalahuipua'a Fishponds.
Palm tree growing near Kalahuipua’a Fishponds.
A red-headed bird landed right in front of us, on the trunk of a nearby palm tree.
A red-headed bird landed right in front of us, on the trunk of a nearby palm tree.
Unknown to us fruits growing near the fishponds.
Unknown to us fruits growing near the fishponds.
A plant sprouting near the water through volcanic rock.
A plant sprouting near the water through volcanic rock.
A tiny crab crawled out on the rock to enjoy the sun.
A tiny crab crawled out on the rock to enjoy the sun.
Plenty of birds to see - I can only imagine they're going for fish.
Plenty of birds to see - I can only imagine they’re going for fish.
More little crabs crawling on local rocks.
More little crabs crawling on local rocks.
A crab tanning on a log near the fishponds.
A crab tanning on a log near the fishponds.
Sunset from the beach, right near the fishponds.
Sunset from the beach, right near the fishponds.
Another angle of the beach, with Maui in the background.
Another angle of the beach, with Maui in the background.
Close-up of a plant growing on the beach.
Close-up of a plant growing on the beach.
Sparrows - they're even in Hawai'i!
Sparrows - they’re even in Hawai’i!
More coconuts - we saw them everywhere.
More coconuts - we saw them everywhere.
Palm trees near the volcanic rock-covered beach.
Palm trees near the volcanic rock-covered beach.
A lone tree near the beach.
A lone tree near the beach.
Maui through the clouds on the horizon.
Maui through the clouds on the horizon.
A close-up of Maui as seen from Big Island.
A close-up of Maui as seen from Big Island.
Looking towards Kawaihae.
Looking towards Kawaihae.
Close up of the coast near Kawaihae.
Close up of the coast near Kawaihae.
That's Kawaihae right there.
That’s Kawaihae right there.
A tourist boat sailing with Maui in the background.
A tourist boat sailing with Maui in the background.
A tree growing on the beach.
A tree growing on the beach.
A lone heron was trying to fish near the fishponds.
A lone heron was trying to fish near the fishponds.
That same heron, still fishing.
That same heron, still fishing.
Fascinating plans - right near the beach.
Fascinating plans - right near the beach.
A blooming tree on the way back.
A blooming tree on the way back.
The last bits of the sunset as we strolled back to the car.
The last bits of the sunset as we strolled back to the car.
A tiny plant growing through the rocks.
A tiny plant growing through the rocks.
A bird enjoying the last bit of sunshine.
A bird enjoying the last bit of sunshine.

At the hotel #

I kept roaming the hotel grounds with the camera because there were many other things I wanted to take pictures of that I didn’t need to go far for. A walk to the top floor stairwell? Count me in. A half-a-mile walk to the highway to take photos of Mauna Kea? Yes, please.

A gecko hanging to the ceiling.
A gecko hanging to the ceiling.
Looking towards Mauna Loa.
Looking towards Mauna Loa.
Looking towards Mauna Loa.
Looking towards Mauna Loa.
Sunset and palm trees.
Sunset and palm trees.
Night sky, as captured through long-exposure shots.
Night sky, as captured through long-exposure shots.
Night sky, as captured through long-exposure shots.
Night sky, as captured through long-exposure shots.
Plenty of goats to see - they were everywhere!
Plenty of goats to see - they were everywhere!
Palm tree and the Hawaiian sky.
Palm tree and the Hawaiian sky.
More goats roaming the hotel grounds.
More goats roaming the hotel grounds.
Mauna Kea, as seen from highway 19 near Waikoloa Road.
Mauna Kea, as seen from highway 19 near Waikoloa Road.
Mauna Kea, as seen from highway 19 near Waikoloa Road.
Mauna Kea, as seen from highway 19 near Waikoloa Road.
Mauna Kea, as seen from highway 19 near Waikoloa Road.
Mauna Kea, as seen from highway 19 near Waikoloa Road.
Looking towards the base of Mauna Kea.
Looking towards the base of Mauna Kea.
Looking towards the Southern slope of Mauna Kea.
Looking towards the Southern slope of Mauna Kea.
Waikoloa Road, with Mauna Kea in the background.
Waikoloa Road, with Mauna Kea in the background.
Queen Ka'ahumanu Highway sign.
Queen Ka’ahumanu Highway sign.
Highway 19, looking towards the northern slope of Mauna Kea.
Highway 19, looking towards the northern slope of Mauna Kea.
Looking north from highway 19.
Looking north from highway 19.
Windmills, as seen looking north towards the Kohala forest reserve.
Windmills, as seen looking north towards the Kohala forest reserve.

Flying back #

The trip was short and we definitely wanted to stay more, but the flight back presented a few more opportunities to take a number of really good shots of Hawai’i and Maui.

Hawaiian Airlines aircraft taxiing at Kona airport (KOA).
Hawaiian Airlines aircraft taxiing at Kona airport (KOA).
Kona Airport (KOA).
Kona Airport (KOA).
Air traffic control (ATC) tower at Kona Airport (KOA).
Air traffic control (ATC) tower at Kona Airport (KOA).
Air traffic control (ATC) tower at Kona Airport (KOA).
Air traffic control (ATC) tower at Kona Airport (KOA).
Hoona Bay, as seen flying out of KOA.
Hoona Bay, as seen flying out of KOA.
Wawaloli Beach Park, as seen from above flying out of KOA.
Wawaloli Beach Park, as seen from above flying out of KOA.
The ocean.
The ocean.
Looking towards Kona Airport from above.
Looking towards Kona Airport from above.
Looking towards Kona Airport from above.
Looking towards Kona Airport from above.
A boat going back to Kona.
A boat going back to Kona.
Maui.
Maui.
Mauna Kea from above.
Mauna Kea from above.
Mauna Kea from above.
Mauna Kea from above.
Mauna Kea from above.
Mauna Kea from above.
Maui coast.
Maui coast.
Maui coast.
Maui coast.
Haleakala observatory on Maui, as seen from above.
Haleakala observatory on Maui, as seen from above.
Haleakala National Park, as seen from above.
Haleakala National Park, as seen from above.
Haleakala observatory on Maui, with the volcanic crater taking most of the space.
Haleakala observatory on Maui, with the volcanic crater taking most of the space.
Maui coast.
Maui coast.

Given that this is the internet, I need to mention this. I retain copyright on all these photos. Their use anywhere, whether for commercial or non-commercial purposes, is prohibited without my written consent.